Thursday 29 January 2015

We haven’t kept up with a daily blog because we haven’t really done much worth writing about. Our days have been spent generally chilling out, a few chores and lots of chatting with our fellow Funsters. The weather has been clear blue sky with shade temperatures in the low 20’s, but cooling off once the sun sets about 6-ish. Today started a little cloudy but by lunchtime it had cleared away.

The friends we have been with since the start have yet to return – they’re having a few extra bits done whilst they've got the chance so we’ll probably not see them until Saturday. However the crew that broke down in Spain have finally caught us up after joining with another Funster to come across to Morocco.

Yesterday was market day in Banana Village (no idea what its real name is, there’s just a lot of bananas for sale!) so, needing a few things, we decided to get the bus to visit. In the end there were 8 of us and while waiting a taxi-bus stopped and offered his services. We've probably mentioned these things before but basically they’re old, and I mean OLD, Ford Transit 1 tonne vans with a couple of benches or bottle crates for seats in the back. There are usually windows in the side but not necessarily with glass in them. Seat belts? What are seat belts?

But at 5 dirhams a head they’re cheap – the bus fare would actually have been the same – so we had an adventure. It was a laugh though uneventful but there were a few worried looks on the ladies faces. We were handily dropped right at the entrance to the market.

This is an important market for the area and is quite big, with sections for clothing, furnishings, “tat”, pyramids of herbs and spices and a huge area for fruit and vegetables. These are piled high, often on the ground, and bought by simply filling a washing-up bowl with what you want which is then weighed. Mix up as much as you like, although generally keeping fruit and vegetables/salads separate, and you pay by weight. It is as fresh as you've ever seen and the quality matches any UK supermarket, at a tenth of the price – we wondered how they ever made any profit! We took advantage to get our vegetables and salads for another week. Incidentally you don't haggle for foodstuffs.

They also had a few butchers’ stalls and we bought a huge turkey breast for around £4 which will last us 3 or 4 meals. (We were told if we’d come an hour earlier we could have talked to the turkey……!).

Bren had been looking for a metal tagine, so of course there was a hardware section where we also bought a gas ring to fix to a butane bottle and use to cook outside. Helps to eke out our gas supplies too. Then back to the village itself to buy a baguette before joining other Funsters round the swimming pool of a (the?) local hotel for coffee.

Intending to catch the bus back to the campsite, we walked along to the stop. The usual tout tried to offer us a taxi, an obviously unlicensed heap that looked like instant suicide and in no way was capable of holding 6 people, so we declined and waited for the bus. A Grand Taxi turned up – these are official and could (just) take 6 – so we grabbed that, just as the bus pulled in. However we were committed and it was still only 5 dirhams each and of course much quicker so we crammed in.

After lunch Terry walked into Taghazoute village and bought a Camping Gaz bottle for 80 dirhams, about £6. These retail for £64 in the UK…… So that’s our backup sorted, at a cost of less than £10.

As I write, Bren is not feeling very well. At first we thought it might have been a tummy bug, but I’m ok so we think it’s a touch of heat-stroke. A couple of our friends have had similar problems but they have responded to the rehydration sachets we carry so hopefully she’ll be fine tomorrow.

(This is not really close to us - it's actually Merzouga - but was posted by another Funster on our forum thread. I thought it was such a good picture, typifying what Morocco is all about, that I just had to show you all.)

Sunday 25 January 2015

Today has just been a lot of, well, nothing. Sit around avoiding sunburn and fending off the traders, who still come round every day.

So some piccies instead, mostly courtesy of Phillip, one of the Funsters who seems to have the knack of getting superb pictures. You can see more if you look at the website, address given a couple of days ago.

The campsite overlooking the beach

Taghazoute Beach early morning

And a bit later

Again

Goats in the argon trees

Taghazoute Village Square

Saturday 24 January 2015

Another hot sunny day, ideal for getting some washing done courtesy of Tina’s washing machine and Colin’s solar power (yep, some folks even carry washing machines). And with a gentle breeze it soon dries too.

Mid-afternoon the Funsters decided to invade our peaceful seaside retreat – they’re just envious really – and we celebrated beer’o’clock. A couple are quite proficient on guitars so we spent the evening “annoying” the French!

More strange apparitions!

Jeanette leads the singalong

Friday 23 January 2015

Some of our group needing cash to pay for their various repairs and replacements (we’d helped them out of course, that’s what friends do) a trip to a cash machine was called for. So as Brian/Ann and Ron/Jeanette and never been we decided to take the bus into Agadir and show them the souk. So after breakfast walked up to the site entrance to where we could flag down a local bus.

Since we arrived a few days ago a fence has been built around the site, or probably more accurately to separate the parking area from a local development. We later asked the guardian and apparently there is a hotel complex planned for the site in three years’ time. However it would not start for at least a year so the camping should still be here if we come back next year. On our bus trip however, we saw evidence of what looked like being a new proper campsite being built and other “wild-camping” areas being fenced off too.

Local transport has several variations; the first is the ordinary bus, all reasonably modern, clean and comfortable and operated by the Spanish bus company Alsa. The next is what is known as a taxi-bus; these are old Ford Transit one tonne vans, sometimes with wooden crates for seats but no windows, which ply up and down regular “routes” and are stopped by just sticking your hand out, giving the driver 5 dirhams and crawling in, often with huge amounts of luggage too that often over-spills onto the roof. Finally there is the Grand Taxi (meaning large taxi) which are always old Mercedes 250s in various stages of dilapidation – there are hundreds of them! Again you just stick your hand out, indicating how many seats you need and if he has room he will stop. They always fully load them, that is with 6 passengers plus the driver – good job Moroccans are of smaller build – and will pick up anybody along, again, fairly regular routes.

We decided on the bus which perversely is the most expensive, though probably the least nerve-wracking! All of 55p each! A pleasant half hour run took us to the central bus station, well perhaps that’s a bit generous but it was a square where buses started and finished. We had borrowed a map but Colin and I remembered the way more or less and a persistent local, who turned out to be a stallholder in the souk, assisted us. For a tip of course!

As we described in our blog last year, Agadir was almost completely destroyed in an earthquake not so long ago and has been totally rebuilt so it is quite modern. The souk is now a series of stalls and small shops lining criss-crossing alleyways which has evolved a character of its own. But, being Friday, it was very quiet although everywhere was open for business. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant close to the mosque and had a close up view of their weekly dedications where they could not all get in, the service being broadcast over (very) loudspeakers.

Further wandering round resulted in various purchases, both necessary and not quite so urgent (!), before returning to the bus station mid-afternoon. A short wait then return to the vans for a welcome cuppa and two rather anxious doggies who had been shut up in their van whilst we were away. It’s not a good idea to take pets into the cities, especially into the souks.

On our return we found that the battery was failing on Brian's van but, guess what, solar-panel-man just happened to come round and had a brand new battery which he fitted in no time! Actually it was quite a good price although being a captive market doesn't help.

We also learned that the Funster crowd had invited themselves down to our patch tomorrow afternoon for “beer-o-clock”. Ah well, there goes the neighbourhood!

Incidentally if you want to get some idea of the Funsters, take a look at the website:

http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/morocco-2015.94373/page-46

is a good starting point.

Thursday 22 January 2015

The wind dropped off during the night and went right round – it’s now a gentle breeze from the south so much nicer. It’s still red hot though and for the moment Bren is staying indoors to let her sunburn subside – we noted 29 deg at lunchtime. Ideal for drying so Bren got a couple of loads hand-washed and it was all put away before we went to bed. Nothing got ironed of course; we don’t do ironing on holiday!

The solar panel man was here on and off all day and hopefully our friends are now sorted, although the third crew reported they’d suddenly lost all their battery power. We’ll check it out overnight.

On our travels in the sun we've seen a lot of people put reflective covers over wheels and tyres exposed to the sun and thought it would be a good idea. And of course the local traders have just the thing so after a bit of bargaining, got a good quality pair for about £11.

Generally we've no plans to move on at the moment so this blog is going to be a bit light for a while. But the whole point of travelling 2398 miles is to relax in the sun.

Wednesday 21 January 2015

The wind got quite strong from the north last night and even though we had some protection from the sandbank we’re parked next to, it was a cross wind so we were rocked about a bit. Still quite breezy when we surfaced but at least it’s warm.

Passing camel!

No real plans today, we've just been messing about around the vans whilst two of our little group are having battery problems sorted out. The local solar panel man is doing a roaring trade!

The finished "Van Tattoo". We love it.

Mid-afternoon a convoy of 7 or 8 Funsters arrived but as there was no space around us overlooking the beach they moved in with the others at the top of the site. Later on we learned an “Open Mike” night of music had been organised at a pizza restaurant in the village and they had come for that. However we decided not to go as the road is very dark and the pathway, such as there is one, is very uneven. Instead we just had our usual evening get together with Colin & Tina.

Bobby and Woody making themselves at home!

The wind has remained strong all day and we've been getting reports of bad weather both north and south of us. However the forecast for here is calmer with gradually increasing temperatures – we've seen 27deg today.

Says it all!

Tuesday 20 January 2015

Deciding we’d like a bit of a lie-in we refused to get up when the local baker banged on our door! However once awake, and with the sun streaming through the skylights, it seemed a waste to lie abed so threw open the doors and windows (well after making ourselves decent!).

A leisurely breakfast in the sun (sorry all you folks at home shivering in your kitchens) and we raised the flag, staking our claim to this bit of territory.

The Funsters have arrived!

It wasn't long before the first of a steady stream of local traders appeared selling all sorts of goodies from mats to jars of local honey, through fish and solar panels! Even a guy offering to do any repairs we might need. However the one chap we remembered from last year was Rashid, a talented painter who paints Moroccan scenes onto your van. We’d been sort of tempted last year but said no, but our three companion crews all wanted one. And of course eventually we succumbed and had a restrained but beautifully done scene painted on our back panel. For £35!

Rashid puts in the finishing touches.

Painted on Colins toilet window. Stunning, especially backlit at night!

After lunch, we settled down to catch a few rays – and of course over did it, but aftersun will take care of it. We were visited by several Brits, including a couple we met in Spain who decided to come to Morocco after chatting with us there. More traders, including one selling live giant Spanish spider crabs. Not for us!

Then as the sun started to go down we were joined by other Funsters, one who was noted for his guitar and singing, so as it got dark drinks were enjoyed, listening and singing along.

Some reprobates spotted lurking about!

It has to beat looking out of the window at home at the rain and snow. We do feel for you all, honestly!

Monday 19 January 2015

Woken early – it has been raining pretty heavily all night and the forecast is much of the same for the next few days. So even though there are signs that the sun is breaking through we have decided to forget Marrakech for now and head further south where we’re told it is warm and dry and expected to stay that way for some time. We can always come back this way.

So service the vans, because we’re going to be off-grid for a while, and first stop the Marjane supermarket to top up the supplies. Then refuel (for less than 60p a litre!) and out through the suburbs of Marrakech and back onto the motorway. It’s around a four hour drive so we took it steadily, eventually climbing into the Atlas Mountains and taking a lunch break almost at the top of the pass at 4200ft. It was a bit chilly!

Then as we descended we could see the clouds breaking ahead through the mountains.

Clouds clearing....

....to a clear blue sky.

The landscape too became more arid and we finally gave our newbies a view of Morocco proper. Descending into the plains surrounding Agadir the temperature rose rapidly and the sky cleared. Skirting the city we headed north along the coast to the small fishing village of Taghazoute, where a large tract of coastal land, dotted with argon trees, has been taken over for guardian parking – and there must be over 250 motorhomes dotted about.

We knew there were at least two other Funsters here already and eventually found their vans, although they had gone out. Unfortunately there was no suitable parking close by so we had another wander round and finally found an ideal spot overlooking the beach that would get sunshine all day and was large enough for the four vans in our party. Much to the annoyance of a German lady who said we were blocking her view – which we weren't but tough anyway. There are no rules and you park where you can fit in.

So as the sun set majestically in the west, we raised a glass! We’re here at last!

Sunday 18 January 2015

This is the end of our third week away and it has all gone so fast!

Another rainy night and it was again cool and breezy as we got ready to depart. Serviced Bertie then “negotiated” with the site owner about the fees, having brought 8 vans in. He gave us our stay for free! I’d call that successful! We will however pass on a bit of discount to the others when we catch up.

So back onto the motorway; it’s not our usual practice but our aim is to get south as reasonably quickly as possible and the normal roads would take us at least twice as long. With the weather as forecast the decision was really a no-brainer.

Driving steadily south, we saw extensive agriculture making the countryside very green. This is very obviously the “bread basket” of Morocco. However, the further we travelled, the more arid it became and much more as you would expect. Dotted here and there were small herds of sheep, goats and cattle, all attended by a solitary keeper and often grazing on the roadside embankments. Small groups of, to us, very run-down dwellings littered the landscape but then occasionally the illusion was shattered by a very modern construction. We did see quite a number of half-finished blocks of what looked like apartment buildings, obviously abandoned. A country of contrasts.

At one of the toll stations we were passed by an escorted convoy of brand new black SUVs, all with the royal number plate insignia, apparently heading for the airport. There were lots of inter-city coaches also using the motorway, but on the other roads running across and alongside, the donkey cart seemed the usual mode of transport. A country of contrasts indeed.

After a short lunch break we started to see the High Atlas Mountains in the distance. This range sweeps south from Tangier, round Marrakech then to the coast around Agadir. Snow-capped, very high and craggy they are an impressive sight, but the photos don’t do them justice.

Atlas Mountains in the distance - look like clouds

 The motorway ended at the approaches to Marrakech and we joined the main road toward the centre. Passing the site we stayed at last year, we followed the satnav and ended up at someone’s front gate! Backtracking, and this time using the directions in the book, we soon picked up signs for the campsite and checked in, joining six others of our original group.

Then it started raining again, so retreat to the vans, cuppa and relax for the rest of the day.

Saturday 17 January 2015

After a wet night, we awoke to discover the group had all decided to push on after getting a report of inclement weather. A couple were just moving down the coast 60 miles whilst the others had decided to head for Marrakech and join the four who had gone straight from Asilah. After checking they were all okay we sent them on their way, happy in the knowledge that we had done what we had set out to do and brought more Funsters over to Morocco. Job done.

Colin and Tina were staying so as the sun came out, we got the chairs out and r e l a x e d!

Later we discussed our plans and decided to follow the crowd to Marrakech tomorrow for a few days before heading down to Taghazoute, maybe by way of Essaoiura, which we missed last year.

Friday 16 January 2015

As last year, we had some quite heavy rain during the night and it was blustery when we got up. As we had completed what we set out to do, that is get a group of Funsters into Morocco, it was now time to do our own thing. Inevitably of course a few still wanted to stick together so we made plans to travel in a loose convoy to Mohammedia, where last year we stayed at the Ocean Bleu campsite. Others went off singly whilst a small group decided to try for Marrakesh.

So after I’d got our sim card topped up at the tele-boutique across the road from Maroc Telecom (grrrrr) our group of 6 set off on the motorway again for the three hours or so trip south. The weather was mixed and we passed through a cloudburst before taking a lunch stop just north of Rabat.

The Rabat ring road is a bit of a nightmare, made more so by trying to keep the convoy more or less together and a couple of drivers had the odd scary moment. Still everybody survived intact and we eventually crawled along the dirt track that is the way into the camp-site. They still haven’t got the main entrance sorted!

Meeting up with a pair of vans that had set off before us and got a bit lost trying to find the site, we eventually parked up more or less together and settled down to relax. One of our number seems to have a problem with his leisure battery, which we haven’t been able to sort out yet, so they need electrical hook-up, which Ocean Bleu has of course. We’re sure he can get it fixed soon.

Now to make our own plans.

Thursday 15 January 2015

Well, after yesterday’s excitement an early start was not really appreciated but we needed to get away in case the tunnel was still closed. So around 8.15 our small convoy set out and fortunately found the road clear, so within 10 mins we were parked up in the queue, waiting for check-in to open. The attendant did open his office early, allowing us to get the paperwork done, but it didn’t save much time because it turned into a “hurry up and wait” exercise, shuffling through the check points then waiting to load.

We eventually boarded 15 mins after the expected departure time and left only 45 mins late, which apparently is quite good! Although we had been told it was the fast ferry, i.e. the 35 min catamaran, it was actually a “proper” ship that was, nevertheless, very nice. Even had a theatre, swimming pool and solarium!

A smooth crossing, during which we got the police documentation sorted and had a coffee, and we docked one and a half hours later. Unloaded, we were directed to the customs and immigration area where, as last time, they parked us together, cleared everybody else then “did” us en masse. It didn’t take too long and by 12.15 we were all clear. A brief stop to exchange currency before joining the excellent toll motorway towards Tangiers. We’d made it all without fuss or problems!

A short stop for fuel then onto Asilah, our planned halt for the night, which is a “Guardian Parking” area. Basically an old car-park or unused piece of land is taken over and operated by a local as an overnight stopping area. Facilities are usually few or non-existent, but it remained guarded overnight and they are considered safe places to stop. The cost is usually around 30Dh, about £2 – which actually on reflection is quite a lot of money for a Moroccan! Ah well, they’re nothing if not enterprising!

Then after lunch Brenda relaxed in the van whilst Terry and Colin spent a frustrating afternoon trying to help get everyone sorted with internet access. It wasn't assisted by a too helpful guy, trying to get everyone up and running on various different devices whilst not really understanding them. It doesn't help, of course, either when the owners don’t really know what they’re doing……………….

Eventually we persuaded them to just buy the sim cards and Colin & I would sort them out, which we did and by bed-time almost everyone was ok. Except me, but I discovered that last year’s card still worked so all I needed was a top-up.

It was a shame really, because we had wanted to walk the group into Asilah to give them a taste of the real Morocco. But everybody seemed happy so we left it at that.

Wednesday 14 January 2015

An earlier start as I wanted to check with Carlos, the ticket agent, before collecting in the paperwork to see what he needed. Also, along with nearly everybody else, we also wanted to top up with LPG. The garage attendant must have been quite bemused when half a dozen motorhomes turned up and proceeded to top up with tiny amounts of gas – one was only 35 cents, although we managed €2.10!

Then back to “Lidl” at Algeciras. This is a bit confusing because we don’t actually need to go to Lidl, but as Carlos used to have his office there, and everybody parked in their car-park, it’s become a point of reference. His office has now moved about 500m along the road and most motorhomes now park round the corner in a little used section of the massive parking area for the Centre Commerciale.

Got our info then joined up with the others, some of whom had already arrived, including the four we had yet to meet, and relieved them all of €200 apiece and their V5, which is all that was needed. Delivered them all back to Carlos (well his daughter actually) then went shopping. There are several different supermarkets here and everybody uses the stop to stock up before taking the ferry.

Returning at 18.00 as promised Carlos went through every bit of paper (he’s a bit of a worrier, but see later) then sent us on our way together with a bag of goodies for each van. Distribute to everybody, then finally a late tea!

But that wasn't the end. About 9.45 pm, Carlos came knocking, looking for “le chef”, i.e. me. “There is a problem, come, come” and loaded me into his car. Everybody else thought I was being abducted whilst I thought that perhaps there was a problem with the tickets. It turned out, however, that there had been a fatal accident in the tunnel approaching the docks and the road was closed. He wanted to show me an alternate route in case it wasn't clear by the morning. His “10 minutes” turned into well over an hour and Bren, and the others, were getting concerned because they had no idea what was going on!

However, eventually Carlos delivered me safely back to the group and I was able to explain. How many other travel agents would go to that length? That’s why everybody goes to Carlos for their tickets. Must send him a thankyou note.

Tuesday 13 January 2015

A brighter morning which turned into a lovely day. We've planned the trip “briefing” for 3.30 so anyone wanting to visit Estepona would have plenty of time.

So after lunch we got everybody together and went through the procedures we’d encounter and also some advice about travelling in Morocco. Everybody was very interested and it seemed we got it just about right because there were few questions. I think we even managed to reassure the nervous ones too.

Then it turned into “beer-o-clock”!

After tea it was load up the van time then get ready for an earlyish start.

Monday 12 January 2015

Firstly apologies for the delay in updating the blog. As you will see we've been quite busy. But anyway, where are we. Oh yes, Monday.

Generally a quiet day, the weather starting a bit dull but brightening up later. It’s generally been a catch-up day and chatting with our new friends. We've learned that one of our missing number won’t now be coming due to illness and progress is slow on the breakdown. And our solo lady turned up at tea-time too.

Just a note about the campsite. It’s really quite small and terraced, but the pitches are fine although those closest to reception and at the top can be tight to access. There are, however, much easier pitches at the bottom of the site although the, not particularly good free WiFi, is practically non-existent. Approach the “wrong way” round the road system would be easier too. Generally well-shaded all have electricity but water taps are not really in abundance – we were lucky, an extra hosepipe had been installed on our patch.

There is a little shop at reception for basics and bread in the morning, which is useful as the nearest supermarket is 2km away and Estepona a 6km bus-ride. The toilet blocks are modern and kept very clean and the swimming pool looks attractive, although it’s not heated………… The staff are very friendly and most speak English.

A nice site for a stop-over but not really for a longer period.

Sunday 11 January 2015

Don’t have to start too early today so it’s our usual Sunday start and bacon & egg sarnies! The sun is shining and it’s getting quite warm. After breakfast Bren tackled the accumulated washing, courtesy of Tina’s portable machine, saving €20 in the process. The site laundry is ridiculously expensive! Terry washed the van.

After lunch a couple more of our group turned up so the rest of the afternoon was spent blocking off the site road with chairs etc. with the “Funsters” enjoying “beer’o’clock” – our phrase for a get-together. We’re still 2/3 unaccounted for and the breakdown has no news at the moment but we’re not going to worry, it’ll sort itself out.

Later we learnt that a solo lady Funster has decided to join us after humming and haaing over the last few weeks, so that will make 14.

Saturday 10 January 2015

A bright warm and sunny start to our day and as we are not travelling far today took our time and spent an hour exploring the market that had been set up on the other side of the car park where we were camped.

Then on to our Fun group meeting place, via a fuel station to get a new gas bottle (reserve supply for Morocco *), at Parque Tropicale, just outside Estepona. At first it didn’t look like much but after having a wander round and getting setup it was actually quite nice, a small friendly family site with a small shop in reception, bar, restaurant and an indoor swimming pool. And free WiFi, which is actually not very good! They had “reserved” an area for us with 8 pitches and we joined two others who had already arrived. Another arrived shortly after so we were now 5 out of a total of 12.

So the rest of the day was spent getting acquainted and giving out lots of info, although we’ll hold off doing a comprehensive briefing until all those who have said they are coming arrive. Photos later

*We use a refillable gas system on Bertie, however there is nowhere in Morocco that we can get it refilled, so we've obtained a larger Spanish bottle and bought adapters to allow us to boost our on-board supply. If necessary we know we can get that one refilled but we think we now have enough to last us.

Friday 9 January 2015

A beautiful morning and warmer than the last few! As we plan to be off-grid tonight spent a few minutes making sure the water tank was full and waste empty before getting back on the autovia, heading for Granada.

Fuel was our first priority so pulled in quite soon and gave it a tankful of the “good” stuff. It costs a little bit more than regular but it helps to keep everything running nice and smoothly, and we seem to go better too.

Well that’s the official story – in reality I picked up the wrong refilling gun………

Having decided that as again we would only be driving for 3hrs or so, we wouldn’t stop for lunch. Round the Granada Ring, far easier than Madrid, then on to Malaga, where the roads became much busier as we joined the Autovia de la Mediterranea.

Although we’ve booked a (discounted) ferry crossing to Tangiers with an agency in Algeciras, it was interesting to note that there were ticket agencies officially signposted all the time we’ve travelled today, up to 300km away! In Arabic too!

Our destination was an aire just past Fuengirola, as we are not due to our campsite at Estepona until tomorrow. Basically it is just a large open parking area with no facilities, but no charge either. There were already between 50 and 75 vans parked, some looking to have been here for a while so we were pleased to note that there was access for waste, although it did look a bit unofficial!

A snack and relax with books for a couple of hours before T wandered along to a Lidl 500m up the road to replenish beer stocks that we forgot yesterday. Then catch up with the paperwork and blog.

We haven’t mentioned it before but Terry has been coordinating a group of fellow motorhomers, via the internet, from the MotorhomeFun forum which includes several who have not been to Morocco before. The list was “closed” at 12 vans and inevitably there have been some dropouts but which have also been replaced. Then today as we parked up, one of our number reported in as broken down – and seconds later we got a text from yet another, entirely unconnected, wanting to join. Keeping track is, to say the least, interesting!

Now we’re out of the mountains and the sun is shining out of a clear blue sky we can at last throw off the jumpers, although as I write it is getting dark and the temperature is cooling off a bit.

Thursday 8 January 2015

Yes it was. Got up when the alarm went off, switched the heating on and went back to bed until the van had warmed up! But the sun soon showed it’s face and we were set for another beautiful day.

LPG is not widely available in Spain so you have to go looking for it. We had both used a lot of gas on heating over the last few days so a refill was in order and we knew of a place on the Madrid Ring where it was available. So with the satnav programmed off we went until it became clear that something was amiss with the directions. Needing a supermarket shop anyway we pulled off into a Centro Commercial and did some shopping before having a look at the satnav. It was correct, but was avoiding toll roads which meant taking us the “pretty way”. We eventually got there and, with a little help from the lady, got our gas.

Then back onto the ring road. Faith restored, following the directions of the satnav was the only way to get clear and after a manic 20mins, swapping lanes, taking obscure turnoffs etc. we escaped Madrid. From here it was then just a straight run along the A4 autovia and having been delayed longer than we’d hoped decided to press on and eat on the go.

Hilltop windmills in the distance

A couple of hours later saw us turning off the autovia at the Parc Naturelle Despenaperro and the lovely little village of Santa Elena. The ACSI campsite was just on the far edge of the village and in a beautiful setting, overlooking the valley of the park. We eventually raised the site owner who told us, in faultless Spanish, to just park up and come back later to pay. Well we assume that’s what he said because that’s what we did and there didn’t seem to be a problem.

The sunshine was beautiful but it rapidly cooled off as it set so button up ‘cos it’s going to be another cold one!

Wednesday 7 January 2015

Despite our concerns, the market did not affect the aire, although the service point was locked off. 

After breakfast we had a quick explore but it was the usual, cheap clothes, shoes, jewellery etc. with only a couple of fruit and vegetable stalls. So with nothing further to delay us we headed off again into the mist and fog.

As we’re in no rush we've agreed with Colin and Tina not to drive too far in one day so our target today was about 50km short of Madrid, about 3hrs driving. A fuel stop and then sticking to the autovia (non-toll) and N1 we by-passed Burgos before heading south and gradually climbing up to the Sierra Guadarama. As we climbed so the temperature dropped and we found ourselves driving through freezing fog, with the verges and bushes frosted over.

Brrrrrrrr!!!

Interior Spain is a plateau at a height of around 2000ft above sea level but we actually saw 4750ft over the Guadarama. Then the fog cleared, obviously trapped by the mountains, and we descended into bright sunshine with clear blue skies. At last! 

Our destination was an ACSI campsite at Cabrera, which was deserted when we arrived and only one other, Brit, arrived after us. So we picked out a nice spot in full sunshine and got some rays, before lovely hot showers.

But it’s going to be cold tonight.

Tuesday 6 January 2015

Another cold grey start with occasional showers that didn’t really improve all day. Again avoiding the motorway we negotiated our way through Bayonne, Biarritz and St Jean de Luc before crossing into Spain at Irun. We've looked at this before and come to the conclusion that it would be overall more economical to just use the peage so that’s what we’ll do in future.

Fortunately the roads in Spain are much better, well in that they are dualled and often motorway standard without ever having to use the autopistas, which are toll. Mind you they are considerably cheaper than France, but it’s the principle of the thing!

Pulled off once to see about a comfort stop, but it was only a fuel station so we took the decision to just keep going to our planned destination which was Vitoria, also known as Gastieze , which is the Basque capital. We stopped here last year and it’s a good overnighter, although the water was off. There is a market on Wednesday morning which the aires book warned us about, although it did not forbid use of the aire. We’ll see if we’re trapped tomorrow!

Monday 5 January 2015

A damp start as it’s gone a bit foggy and it’s a bit chill too. Some nice person turned the water on overnight so Colin & I serviced the vans whilst the girls went shopping. The point here is that these aires are provided, often free, by the local community to attract people so it seems only fair that we support them by using the shops, restaurants etc.

A quick chat with another Brit parked round the corner then headed off to find some fuel. First attempt was at a service area for trucks and none of our cards were acceptable. The satnav showed a Super U about 4 km away so we headed there and filled up at €1.07 per litre before rejoining the N10 towards Anguoleme.

It remained foggy for most of the day, the sun breaking through a couple of times but the roads were good and fast; we even did a little non-toll motorway cruising around Bordeaux which all helped to save time. A quick lunch in a service area, as we had lost an hour messing around with fuel, then eventually when it became toll we turned cross-country heading for Mugron where there was a free aire with electric. Unfortunately the water was off but we had refilled at Chaunay so no problem. A little waiting around whilst cars were removed so we could park up properly - this happens occasionally in town aires; you just accept it.

Then relax and do a little planning – we’ll be crossing into Spain tomorrow so decisions about our route were made, although we may have to make adjustments to cope with toll roads again.

Sunday 4 January 2015

Dry cool morning and another earlyish start after dumping the waste water. As is normal at this time of year there is no water switched on so we’ll have to be careful until we get further south.

Today we've let Colin take the lead so he can take the wrong turnings, which of course he didn’t! It rained a little occasionally but generally the roads were quiet and we followed the same route as last year, reminiscing.

Saw this last year

No motorways today, just the usual good fast N10 mixed in with towns and villages. Stopped off at a boulangerie for baguettes and lunch was taken at a picnic area along the way.

Our target tonight was Chaunay, a small typically French town with a free aire set just off the large main square – empty when we arrived but joined later by another Brit who was heading home from Spain. Free electric but alas the water was again turned off so no shower tonight. But Colin has promised us tomorrow night’s stop WILL have water….

The time difference, and being well south, means it doesn't get dark until around 5.30 and our earlier stop today has left us more relaxed. Took the opportunity of updating the blog as it’s the first time we've had the time and a decent internet connection.

First call tomorrow will be to refuel as both drivers have been eyeing fuel gauges for the last hour and Colin has a low fuel warning up. Fortunately there is an Auchan just along the road so we’ll do a bit of shopping as well.

Bren has just noticed the Christmas lights have come on in the square - time for a piccie!

Happy New Year

Saturday 3 January 2015

The heavens opened overnight and the day generally remained cold and wet until well after lunch.

We had agreed to an earlyish start with a view to getting a good lump of the trip out of the way whilst the weather was iffy, so departed just after 10.00. Although we don’t usually use toll roads Colin convinced us that the time we’d save was worth the cost so we gave it a go, especially as it was far easier driving in the rain on the autoroute. Anyway it was only as far as Abbeville, after which it was toll free.

Our target was Chateaudun, where we’d stopped last year, so we just got on with it, staying together and communicating by walkie talkie. The bridge at Rouen, which has been closed for a couple of years, was now open and of course the different road layout confused me, resulting in a convulated trip round Rouen to get back onto our route. Eventually sorted and we lunched at the aire at Pont de l’Arche. 

Managed to miss a turn again as we left there but Bren and the satnav sorted us out with little time lost. The roads were generally quiet as expected but it was a long drive and we were relieved to arrive at the free aire at Chateaudun just as it was getting dark. At least the rain had stopped and it was quite mild too.

Settle in, get updated on the web forum and deal with bits and pieces from the group before tea, another catch-up and planning session then a reasonably early night. We’ll not drive so far tomorrow, it’s tiring and we’re not in any rush.

Friday 2 January 2015

After a pleasant few days, during which we saw the snow melt and I managed to clean Bertie after a filthy trip down on Monday, we’re now off to Folkestone crossing late this afternoon. 

A much nicer day and pretty well trouble free journey, stopping off at Thurrock for lunch before using the new Dartford Toll system for the first time. They are still working on the changeover so it’s not yet up to full speed but still quicker than before.

Booked onto the 1820 train, we decided we’d take the first available even if it meant a surcharge but we took the offer of 1720 – at no extra charge – but eventually got the 1705 which helped although it was dark when we arrived at Calais. First stop to refuel then on to the Wissant aire where we had arranged to meet one of the group we've formed with a view to travelling together.

Mission accomplished and a good chat with Colin and Tina, who we’d met last year, ended an excellent start to our trip.

Monday 29 December 2014

Well, that’s it. Bertie has been serviced and fully checked over by Diamond Dave Newell. We've spent the weekend loading up and as usual wondering (a) why do we take so much and (b) where am I going to put it! Eventually found holes for everything, except for the spare gas bottle which is going to have to travel in the loo – suitably tied down of course.

So close the house down then off down to Navenby to spend New Year with Mum.

Happy New Year everybody.