Tuesday 31 March 2015

Another scorcher, which makes getting going not quite so easy! However get and go we must so after the usual full service we headed off to a local hypermarket, Continente this time, to resupply. Had a little difficulty finding our way out, the saida (exit) signs had us going round and round the car park, but we foiled them in the end!

We missed the aqueduct yesterday so, as it was on our route, we stopped off for a quick look and a photo; funny it seemed more dramatic when we came through 2 years ago. Then northwards, carefully avoiding the motorway; the signposts keep trying to make you use them and the alternatives are not usually very clear, but again we foiled them.

The roads were generally good and very quiet so we bowled along quite happily in the hot sunshine with the air-conditioning going. Our route firstly took us across quite a flat area with several hill top walled  towns, before meeting the hills of Evoramonte and from there on it was quite scenic. Forestry seems to be quite important, noting the several timber lorries we encountered (why is it always on a bend?). The occasional reservoir also provided more interest although regretfully we were past before we could grab the camera. Everybody thinks of the Algarve when talking about Portugal but there is some beautiful countryside away from the coast, and in our case we were never more than a few miles from the Spanish border as we headed north.

Evoramonte

Estremoz?

Portalegre?

Lunch was taken at a picnic area off the main IP2 where we realised that our projected target night stop was going to be a bit of a stretch. However a check of the campsite books showed a free municipal site at Castelo Branco which was just right so TomTom was given his instructions again, although he did seem to have a tendency to use the motorways. Brens map-reading soon sorted that.

It was only as we were skirting the town that Bren noticed the site was apparently not yet open for the season, but being within a few minutes we carried on to find the book was wrong and it was open February to November. It was wrong about being free as well, but €6.35 is very good when we have full facilities, though we eschewed electricity this time, the batteries being well charged enough for one night.

With only a few units on site we had our choice of pitch and settled down amongst the trees with a welcome drink and snooze until it got cooler – we've seen 35 deg again today. It’s hard to remember that it’s cold wet and windy at home – just got a message asking us to bring some sunshine with us! (Wilco!)

But if that b----y dog doesn't shut up, murder is going to be done later…………..

Monday 30 March 2015

Having missed seeing Evora 2 years ago, due to poor weather, we’d promised ourselves a visit this trip so after a latish start we wandered down to the bus stop, to find the next was over half an hour. It’s really not all that far, about 2 km so we started walking and no bus passed us in the 25mins it took to reach the impressive town walls. Another 10 mins saw us in Praco di Giraldo, the main square where we picked up a map from T.I. then had a coffee/orange juice whilst pondering where we go first.

Praca di Giraldo

Evora is very compact and is arranged in circles round the cathedral – it would only take 15 mins to cross it completely. Most of the attractions could be seen by following an extended circle in the order they were listed (no doubt that was the idea) so that’s what we did. With Roman as well as Moorish origins, it was a very pleasant place to stroll round in the bright sunshine and of course all the buildings were painted white with the yellow/ochre trim you see everywhere in Portugal.

It's broken, or was it designed like that?

Lunch at Mr Pickwick

We had a late lunch in a small restaurant just off the square before visiting the ossuary, a chapel built entirely of human bones that were excavated from a cemetery to create more room for building (not recently you should understand!) Presently undergoing full renovation, as was the church it was attached to, it was interesting if a little macabre!

From there a walk through the public gardens brought us back to the road to the campsite. Still no evidence of buses, we strolled, much more slowly this time, back to the van and welcome refreshment and relaxation. We very much enjoyed our visit, and if you go any day except Monday you’ll find everything open………..

One of the attractions we only glimpsed today was a complete Roman aqueduct, something we spotted on our way through 2 years ago. We’ll make a point of stopping off on our way out tomorrow; it’s on our way and mostly outside the town walls.

Sunday 29 March 2015

The local church clock rings out the hour, every hour – twice. No idea why but it actually didn’t keep us awake. Just as well as the clocks went forward one hour!

Another gorgeous morning and after customary bacon and eggs we made the short climb into the, what turned out to be, small village. Very picturesque, including a small hidden bull-ring, it didn’t take us long to explore.

Narrow streets

That church with the two-timing clock

Town square - with ancient stocks in middle

Bull Ring

The aire at Monsaraz - super location

So where next? Despite everything we were enjoying, practicalities were starting to intrude i.e. the laundry was building up again. Deciding to kill two birds with one stone, the ACSI campsite at Evora beckoned, both for its proximity to the city and its washing machines! Less than an hour away, we had to make a small diversion away from a town that was having some sort of celebration – Palm Sunday? – but it was no bother and we were soon turning into Orbitur Camping, where we booked for 2 nights (and bought ridiculously expensive washer/dryer tokens).

A nice pitch, a quick lunch and Terry set up while Bren got started on the laundry. Being a lovely warm day with a gentle breeze, the dryer was almost superfluous but we got the whole lot done, dried and put away by teatime! And we both got quite a bit of sun lounger time too. Which leaves tomorrow free so we’re planning on taking the bus into, we’re told, a nice place to explore.

Yet another sunset!

Saturday 28 March 2015

Right, let’s get on with it! Service and goodbyes (again!) then a quick fuel stop before another quick call into Lidl for bread and milk (and a bathmat, bottle of Malibu, you know, the everyday essentials!). Then we got lost coming out of Portimao, not having programmed in our destination.

Sometimes, we don't get it quite right!

And sometimes we do

Well actually, we had only a vague idea of where we were going, Evora being a city we had passed through two years ago and promised ourselves to revisit. On the map we spotted the Alqueva reservoir, the largest in surface area in Europe, and its barragem (dam). 

On a clear day you can see forever. At the Alqueva Barragem

These barragems quite often have large parking areas and motorhome parking is tolerated and popular. However in this case it was not so, but our Aires book “recommended” a place just a little north promising the best views in Portugal (heard that one before!) so programmed it into TomTom and enjoyed a scenic route through the various waterways formed when the dam was flooded.

Monsaraz

Monsaraz is a citadel town, that is, it’s built within fortified walls on top of the only, quite high, hill around and one of the car parks is dedicated to motorhomes. On a terrace just under the walls, it was indeed a superb location and we got the last space, overlooking the huge expanse of the Alqueva reservoir in the late evening sunshine.

View from the van

The other way

The kind of place you can only get to see with a motorhome.

Friday 27 March 2015

El Scorchio – get the chairs out and enjoy it. Actually we did a little too much so that after lunch it was cover up time. Terry had a walk to the beach, Praia de Rocha, which was lovely; miles of golden sand with safe bathing, water-sports and little café/restaurants. It’s obviously a favourite with the locals as the car park was almost full.

Praia Rocha at Portimao

The other way

Acres of sand

Plenty of water sports

Later, another of our Morocco friends, who had arrived this morning, called in for a chin-wag before a quiet tea then contemplation of our next move. We MUST move on tomorrow.

Thursday 26 March 2015

Nice as it is here in Portimao, we must start heading north or we’ll be rushing, so after servicing the van we said our goodbyes and headed out. First stop was to refill the gas bottles and we were surprised to find they were almost empty – we seem to have used a lot more than were expecting so keep an eye on that. Then the usual tramp round Lidl to restock the fridge and cupboards before crossing to the commercial centre (shopping mall to you) to find a Vodafone shop to top up the internet.

So with plenty of fuel, we headed west, our target being the “Lands End” of Portugal at Sagres. Looked in at the “new” aire at Alvor to find it was almost empty, surprising, as was that at Lagos, a little further along the coast. We surmised that the hordes of French, who were in the Algarve rather than going to Morocco, were now on their way home for Easter.

And so on to Sagres. There’s really not a lot there and it was really rather quiet, although the motorhome parking was full. Found a spot to park up for an hour to take photos and have lunch, but it was very windy so we pushed on.

Sagres

and the other way

Lands End a la Portugal

Deciding to go up the middle, rather than the coast, we spotted an aire that promised superb views over the Algarve. “Try to visit when clear skies are forecast” said the book, it being an observatory on top of a mountain. So we programmed TomTom and set off – and the sky gradually clouded over as we approached the mountain. Quite a steep climb, with glimpses of potentially superb views – until suddenly we were enveloped in thick mist. Thankfully the satnav coordinates were spot on, because we couldn't see more than a few yards and would have easily missed the parking.

A cup of tea and a rethink. It was now late afternoon and finding somewhere else to stop was becoming a problem. But a quick check showed that Portimao was in fact only 40 mins away – we’d come in a big loop – so decision made! Welcomed back by our friends, we adjourned to the café for tea, not being interested in cooking now.

What the heck, we’ll stay a couple more nights as the weather forecast is definitely scorchio!

Tuesday/Wednesday 24/25 March 2015

Portimao. A little rain overnight but dry on Tuesday morning, though the breeze is still a bit cool – the weather forecast says it’s going to get warmer over the next few days and then into next week. So we’ll expect more rain then!

Apart from lounging around and chatting to friends, not a lot done on Tuesday. However, as promised, Wednesday dawned bright and clear so we turned the van round to get better sun and shelter from the breeze, and Bren did some smalls washing, which dried in an hour, great! Also had a bit of a sort out in the lockers and discovered some books we hadn't yet read and a handful of DVD’s we’d been looking for.

After lunch, an impromptu beer-o-clock started at Champers van and we were subsequently joined by a Brit from the caravan next door. Enjoyable until then – the bigoted, loud-mouthed twat who couldn't hold his drink put an end to that, although it was getting close to tea-time. Prat.

Never mind, after tea we adjourned to the site café/bar – and didn’t tell him!

Monday 23 March 2015

Most of the French moved out early today and there was just us and one other when we had breakfast. We later learned that many of them had started to return home for Easter – goody, more room for us! With no facilities to service the van, we were quickly on our way via, you've guessed, Aldi this time. Needing to empty the waste tanks we checked out a couple of aires but they all wanted a night’s stay, which we didn’t so carried on.

A couple of years ago we stayed on a large aire at Portimao (see 2013 Blog ->), a large town with its own port and marina. We’d heard that it had been taken over and improved so thought that perhaps one night there would be okay. TomTom took us straight there to find a much tidier place – it’s actually quite large with room for well over 100 units – and still only €2.50, good value although water was an extra €2/100 litres from a machine. But they've got free Wi-Fi.

After doing the necessary we found a nice pitch, close to another Brit “Bertie” and had a nice chat before lunch. Afterward, thinking we’d turn the van round to get a bit more level, we spotted a familiar face and there, refilling their water, were old friends Katherine & Malcolm from last year in Morocco.  It also turned out that Kath & John (Champers) were here too so we followed them back to their parking spot and found another close by for a lovely reunion.

It turned out it was Malcolm & Katherine’s wedding anniversary and we were invited to join them for a meal out, which we were delighted to accept. So later, we joined them all for pre-pre-dinner drinks, then walked a way to a favourite café/bar for pre-dinner drinks and then onto the highlight of the evening. A supermarket café!

Now don’t laugh; this turned out to be a real treat. The food was cooked right in front of us, it was excellent quality, plenty of it and CHEAP. You can’t beat €11 for the two of us, including drinks, even if we were sitting at a cafeteria table! Then after much merriment, we took a slow walk back to the van, Bren having rushed about a bit too much and suffering slightly.

But what a super day it turned out to be, and quite by accident too!

Saturday/Sunday 21/22 March 2015

Despite a forecast of rain for most of the day, Saturday was clear and very warm when we got up, the solar panel already having fully charged the batteries, so opened everything up and got the chairs out. However there was a cool breeze running in off the sea and it wasn't too long before it started to cloud over and by lunchtime it was raining quite heavily. What is it about the Algarve and us?

It did dry up later though it never became warm enough again to sit out.

Sunday was our normal late start with bacon and eggs looking out at patchy sunshine which, however, was enough to charge the batteries again. All the other half dozen or so vans here are French which, as we've seen quite a few other nationalities, puzzled us a bit until we noticed that this parking spot was only in the French Guide to Portugal. Still, we had parked in such a way that they couldn't encroach on us as is their usual habit. They do seem unhappy if there is more than 2 feet between their vans…………….

We later had a little walk round, noticing that the place seemed quite popular with Portuguese although the beach-side fish restaurant probably had something to do with it. Going back up the hill confirmed there was nothing but holiday lets and one 4-star hotel that was just about open but not at all busy. The season apparently doesn't start until Easter by which time we’ll probably be in southern France.

Small beach with arches just off-shore

Move on tomorrow (the loo is getting slightly iffy – but you didn’t need to know that did you?)

Friday 20 March 2015

Not knowing where we’re going to end up today we took extra care to empty the waste and fill up with fresh water, including the spare bottles we are carrying before heading out, once again to the nearest Lidl to top up the groceries. Not having a huge food storage capacity we've found that this is a good way to ensure we've always got fresh stuff – and there is a Lidl or Aldi in almost every town, some of them including British food too.

Roundabout Art - outside a waterpark

Once again taking the N125 we bumbled westward before seeing the signs for Albufeira, a town we've not visited so turned off. Bren quickly found an aire close by so TomTom was instructed to take us there. It turned out that the aire was actually a low-season “tolerated” car park right overlooking a tiny beach and cliffs amongst dozens of holiday apartments, nearly all currently closed. As usual there were several French vans there but plenty of room for us so after deciding not to park right on the cliff edge, we decided to stay over the weekend. There were no facilities but having already done a full service and shop this was fine – location this time was all.

Ships that pass in the (day)

Towards Albufeira from our pitch

Unfortunately the weather started to make itself felt with increasing cloud chasing us back indoors, but we can sit here just as well as on a campsite, and it’s free!

On our way here, just as we left Quarteira we noticed that we had no power to the various accessories, e.g. camera and satnav. A bit of testing showed it was a fuse and we eventually discovered a short on the netbook charger. So we probably won’t be able to use “Nelly” much now. No worries! Oh yes, a gas bottle ran out yesterday so we’ll have to remember to get a refill in the next few days, although it should last us 10 days or so.

Wednesday/Thursday 18/19 March 2015

Although a bright enough start on Wednesday, it didn’t look too promising so we just hung around the van all morning tidying up and what have you. After lunch we decided to chance it, packed waterproofs and walked into town. Bren was looking for a hairdresser and Terry for some Portuguese internet.

But we didn’t get far before the rain started again, but we decided to carry on so dressed up and quickly booked an appointment for Bren tomorrow. Further exploring the modern main street of this fairly uninteresting town we found a Vodafone shop and got a new sim – as evidenced by the fact that you’re now reading our blog again!

Thinking of possibly a coffee, we wandered down to the front in ever-increasing rain and spotted a craft shop where certain purchases were made (can’t say too much!). A new watch battery for Terry and watch strap for Bren completed our mission before we high-tailed it back to the van, sans coffee. Hot chocolate and then a fight with the internet connection before more notalot for the rest of the day.

Thursday looked as though it might be a bit brighter although the weather forecast we got last night

suggested no improvement until next week, certainly not on the Algarve. So we took the opportunity of a bit of washing (and drying, a bit expensive though) then showers before Bren went off to have her hair done.

As I write, late afternoon, we haven’t decided what we’re going to do next. We had wanted to visit Cabo de Sao Vicente, the south-west corner of Portugal, having missed it last year but we’ll probably now wait until we’re on the road tomorrow. Again, watch this space.

Tuesday 17 March 2015

Well, that’s a way to be woken that we haven’t heard in a long time – it’s raining! Without internet we've not been able to get a forecast but no bother, we intended to travel back down to the coast today and perhaps it might be better there.

So with no facilities to service Bertie we left after breakfast, calling in for fuel at the first filling station we've seen since Spain in the town. Heading south, we picked up the N124 which is the “back road” along the Algarve avoiding the holiday resorts and passing through the hills which, despite the lessening showers, was quite attractive.

Eventually we reached the outskirts of Faro and, spotting a Lidl, stopped for basics and lunch in their car park. Quite a few Lidl stores provide designated motorhome parking, although we’re not sure if overnighting is welcomed. 

Having decided that a few days on a “proper” campsite was in order we headed for a site we’d used two years ago at Quarteira. Unlike all the aires and unofficial places we’d seen there was plenty of room and we booked in for three nights.

Although sunny and dry now, the receptionist thought we may have more rain tomorrow; we’ll just have to wait and see.

Monday 16 March 2015

A cool night; being in a steep-sided river valley the sun “sets” early and “rises” late. Awoken by what appeared to be a lot of activity, we got up in case we were in someone’s way, but it was just some fishermen and the local rowing club so no problem.

Along the river from the walls of Mertola

After breakfast we climbed the steep steps and road up into the village. Having seen the new modern part of the town on way in, we decided to explore the pretty roads and passages of the old town, dominated by a castle. The Rough Guide told us there was some history, including a Moorish period – the church had evidently been converted from a mosque – and a Roman occupation. In fact you can still see the remains of the old Roman bridge just a little way from where we were parked. There is also a Roman museum in the basement of the town hall. 

Narrow lanes with the castle overlooking

After a coffee, the lady in the T.I. gave us some ideas and we visited a reconstructed ancient house (again too “modernised”) as well as a weaving exhibition. A local cooperative has been formed to try to re-introduce this cottage industry, but at €130 for a blanket they perhaps shouldn't hold their breath! Unfortunately, as it was Monday, the castle was closed so we wandered back to Bertie.

The parking area had emptied somewhat so we repositioned to a better spot before lunch and the rest of the day was spent relaxing, as well as a little planning on what to do next. Watch this space!

 

Sunday 15 March 2015

Time to move on so after our usual bacon and egg breakfast, we serviced the van, paid our dues and once again said goodbye to Barry. Our destination today is to cross the border to Portugal with vague ideas of where we were going to stop. There wasn't much point in avoiding it, so we took the toll-free Autovia out of Seville, stopping briefly to cure a rattling pan we hadn't put away properly, when Barry caught us up again! However he was heading to Faro to park up his van and catch a plane home (for a funeral unfortunately) so we’ll not see him again this trip – probably!

Crossing the border, we registered for the automated motorway tolls, which we won’t use unless we have to, then turned off and headed north for a barragem (dam) we had spotted on the map. Often these have parking areas where it’s permitted to stay overnight and they are usually very nice. But not this one, so we headed back down to the coast for an aire we’d used before at Manta Rota. Unfortunately it seemed that the stories we’d heard about the French refusing Morocco and instead stopping in Portugal were true – it was packed with no chance of getting parked up here.

However, whilst Terry was investigating, Bren looked at a list of possible stopovers that Barry had passed on and realised that we’d been halfway to them when we tried the barragem. So we retraced our steps and set the satnav for Alcoutin, about 40 mins north along the Rio Guadiana, which forms the border with Spain. But it was only small and already full, although a nice Frenchman said he’d be leaving so we could have his space – in a couple of hours! Not wishing to chance it we put the second site into the satnav which took us to a lovely river quay parking spot under the walls of Mertola, and there was room for us, and a couple more too.

So we parked up, had a very late lunch then settled in. We’ll probably stop for a couple of days although, apart from a water tap and rubbish skip, there aren't any facilities – but no matter, we’re supposed to be self-contained.

Sorry, no photies today!

Friday/Saturday 13/14 March 2015

Hello, we’re  back! We seem to have had a little problem with the data sim card we bought to keep us in touch, so there may have been a few days since we were able to update.Sorry!

Friday was a late start, for once we had nothing and nobody else to think about, and after breakfast Bren got on with a few loads of washing, also using the dryer as we didn’t have much room to hang things out. Got it (almost) all dry too due to the hot sun and pleasant breeze. We also spent a little time giving Bertie a clean out too – we’re still picking up sand! Afterwards was just general nothing!

We came here last year to visit Seville and one of our intentions this year was to return, so after breakfast on Saturday morning we walked round to the bus stop for the 25 min run into the city, at the princely cost of €1.55 each. Scrounging a map from the tour bus stall, we walked up to and around the cathedral, said to be the third largest in Europe. We had thought about visiting but as it was Saturday it was very crowded and there was also actually a wedding taking place, rather posh with a special horse and carriage.

Wedding Cart

Having a devil of a time!

Waiting at the church?

From there we walked across to the Real Alcazar, the Royal Palace, now open to the public which was our target as we didn’t have time last year. We’re glad we put aside most of the day because there was a lot to see; no furnishings of course, we've yet to see it in any of the old buildings we like to mooch around. Definitely not National Trust/English Heritage, these places are usually supported by the local town council. A feature we loved was the number of small shaded courtyards, or patios as they were called, which were everywhere providing cool relief from the sun, not so bad now but in high summer it must have been very welcome.

There was also a large area of gardens which we briefly explored before stopping off at the café for a drink and quick bite to eat.

A visit to the obligatory souvenir shop then back onto the streets of Seville and the bus stop, via an ice cream shop! The bus was again on time and we were whisked back to Gelves for a welcome cuppa, only to find that Barry had caught us up. So after tea we repaired to the café/bar across the way. And so ended another pleasant day.

Thursday 12 March 2015

Although we’re moving on today, it’s not far so we didn’t rush to get started. Goodbyes to the folks we’d met, a quick service of the van then go looking for a supermarket as we’re running out of choices (although we wouldn't starve). Following the satnav and trying to find a hypermarket we’d spotted on our way in to Sanlucar, we decided we’d missed it so just took the road for Seville, once again avoiding the toll Autopistas.

Although it had started quite cloudy, it soon brightened up again and we enjoyed a steady run through quite flat countryside. It seemed, however, that wherever there was a hill, a town or village had been built on it and we noted several such places as we passed.

The kilometres sped by and soon we joined the (non-toll) Autovia which took us to the ronda (ring road) around Seville. Crossing the large suspension bridge it was very busy and took all our concentration to ensure we kept going the right way, despite the excellent guidance from TomTom. Eventually we left the ronda on the road towards Gelves, where there is a nice place to stay, and immediately spotted a Carrefour hypermarket. Fortunately it was quite easy to find the access road, if not so easy to find a parking spot; despite a huge car park, most of it was under sun shades and too low for Bertie, although we did find open areas right at the far end. An hour wandering round filled up the food lockers again, including Tetley teabags and proper English bacon – Carrefour almost always has a small section dedicated to other nationalities which is nice to find.

Then on to Puerto Gelves, a small marina where space has been given over for motorhome parking with access to toilets, showers and a washing and drying machine, as well as the usual facilities. We stopped here last year, but they appear to have stopped parking on the harbour wall so the space is now somewhat limited. However there was more than enough for us so we chose a spot with plenty of sun and settled in.

Our plan is to get caught up with the washing and have a general clean up, so there probably won’t be much of a blog tomorrow.

Wednesday 11 March 2015

Yesterday was a scorcher – so hot that even sitting out in the sun had to be limited! Our activity was limited to refilling the spare water bottles, just in case we lost access to the tap after they cordoned off part of the parking area, we’re told, for two festivals. As it turned out nobody actually used the area all the time we were there.

Today, although it promised to be as warm as yesterday, we had arranged to go for a walk into town with Barry, a guy we’d run into previously, to see if we could find the market or other places of interest. First off was to get a new data sim card, because the UK one we were using was turning out to be VERY expensive. After a couple of attempts we got a reasonably priced Orange card, which we can recharge if necessary.

Then head up the hill. No sign of the market but we did find the castle and as it was offering special rates for pensioners…….! Unlike National Trust in the UK, old buildings here tend to be either left as they are or repaired to be as close as possible to the original as had happened here. Although they’d done a very good job, really it detracted from the character and despite plenty of information, it was just “interesting”. There were some good views from the top of the tower though.

Castle at Sanlucar de Barrameda

Overlooking the town

Palace - we couldn't get access for some reason

A quiet square

From there, lunch was calling so we descended back into the town and chose a restaurant in one of the small squares to refresh ourselves. Don’t know if something got lost in translation but Bren got her chicken and chips, Terry got a beautiful pork kebab while Barry ended up with cod tapas – it was actually quite nice – whilst being "entertained" by several street artistes who thought they could play/sing and the odd street trader. It’s sad to say that there were street beggars almost everywhere as well.

After killing an hour or so there we returned to the van for a bit more sun and then a bit of planning as we intend to move on tomorrow. We found Sanlucar de Barrameda a lovely little spot, not the least bit touristy. We’ll be back and will also recommend it.